Chamar Expedition via Tsum Valley
Trip Overview
The Chamar Expedition via Tsum Valley is a rare and exceptional adventure that combines high-altitude mountaineering with deep cultural immersion in one of Nepal’s most remote Himalayan regions. Mount Chamar (7,165 meters), also known as Chamar Himal, stands in proud isolation near the border of Tibet, offering climbers a challenging and highly rewarding ascent. This less-frequented peak lies within the Manaslu Conservation Area and is surrounded by wild, unspoiled terrain, ancient Buddhist heritage, and breathtaking Himalayan vistas. The expedition begins with a trek through the sacred and secluded Tsum Valley a culturally rich enclave once described as the “Hidden Valley of Happiness.” This journey offers not only the thrill of alpine climbing but also the tranquility of spiritual exploration, far from the crowded trekking circuits of Nepal.
Highlights of the Expedition
One of the greatest rewards of this expedition lies in the approach itself. The Tsum Valley remains a truly off-the-beaten-path destination, largely untouched by modern development. Inhabited by ethnic Tsumba people, the valley reflects ancient Tibetan Buddhist traditions that are still preserved in their purest forms. As you pass through timeless villages like Chhekampar, Nile, and Mu Gompa, you’ll encounter chortens, mani walls, and centuries-old monasteries, some perched high on dramatic cliff sides. The region is also known for its spiritual significance; it is believed that the revered Buddhist saint Milarepa meditated in these very mountains.
The trek through Tsum provides an essential acclimatization period before the technical climb to Chamar. This journey allows you to gradually ascend from lush river valleys to stark alpine heights, traversing diverse ecosystems along the way. The Manaslu Conservation Area home to elusive snow leopards, Himalayan blue sheep, and various birds of prey offers a captivating natural backdrop throughout the approach. When the mountain finally comes into view, the sight of Chamar’s towering snow and ice-covered massif is nothing short of awe-inspiring.
About the Climb
The ascent of Mount Chamar is considered a technically demanding expedition, suitable for experienced alpinists with prior high-altitude climbing experience. The route typically involves navigating crevassed glaciers, steep ice sections, and exposed ridgelines. With an elevation of over 7,000 meters, climbers must be well-acclimatized and in excellent physical condition. Our itinerary is designed with adequate rest days, strategic acclimatization points, and time-tested logistics to ensure a safe and successful summit attempt.
Netive Everest Treks & Expedition Pvt. Ltd. provides a highly experienced team of certified climbing guides, support crew, porters, and kitchen staff to assist you throughout the journey. Our team also ensures your safety by equipping base camp and high camps with appropriate gear, communication systems, and medical support.
Best Time for the Chamar Expedition
The most favorable periods for the Chamar Expedition are spring (April–May) and autumn (September–November). During these seasons, weather conditions in the Himalayas are typically stable, with clearer skies and more predictable mountain conditions. Spring offers the additional charm of rhododendron blooms and relatively warmer temperatures, while autumn features excellent visibility and crisp air—ideal for both trekking and climbing.
Is the Chamar Expedition via Tsum Valley Right for You?
If you are a seasoned mountaineer seeking an extraordinary expedition that goes beyond the conventional climbing experience, the Chamar Expedition via Tsum Valley is the perfect choice. This journey offers a rare blend of Himalayan solitude, spiritual discovery, and technical adventure. The route’s remoteness ensures a unique and deeply personal connection with both the mountain and the communities you’ll encounter. It is more than a summit it is a passage through ancient landscapes, sacred traditions, and some of the most pristine alpine wilderness Nepal has to offer.
If this sounds like the adventure you’ve been dreaming of, we invite you to contact Netive Everest Treks & Expedition Pvt. Ltd. and begin planning your once-in-a-lifetime Chamar Expedition today.
Itinerary
Arrival in Kathmandu (1,300m)
Upon your arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, our representative will greet you and transfer you to your hotel. After check-in, you'll have time to relax and recover from your journey. In the evening, a welcome dinner will be hosted where you can meet your expedition leader and fellow climbers.
Kathmandu Sightseeing – Boudhanath, Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple)
Today you’ll explore the spiritual heart of Nepal with a guided tour of Kathmandu’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Visit the magnificent Boudhanath Stupa, one of the largest Buddhist stupas in the world, and the sacred Swayambhunath Stupa, also known as the Monkey Temple, which offers panoramic views of the city.
Expedition Briefing & Equipment Check
Today is dedicated to final preparations for the expedition. We will attend a mandatory briefing at the Department of Tourism, followed by a comprehensive gear check. Any missing or additional gear can be rented or purchased in Thamel.
Drive from Kathmandu to Machha Khola (1,035m) – 8 to 9 hours
An early morning scenic drive takes you along the Trishuli River and through the hills of Gorkha and Arughat, finally reaching Machha Khola—a riverside village and the starting point of your trek.
Trek to Jagat (1,410m) – 7 to 8 hours
The trail follows the Budi Gandaki River, crossing suspension bridges and passing through several Gurung and Magar villages. You’ll arrive at Jagat, a stone-paved village and checkpoint for the Manaslu Conservation Area.
Trek to Lokpa (2,240m) – 6 to 7 hours
Continue the journey through forested paths and steep ridges before entering the gateway to the Tsum Valley at Lokpa. The remoteness becomes more evident as you climb higher into this sacred Buddhist land.
Trek to Chumling (3,200m) – 5 hours
The trail ascends gradually through pine and rhododendron forests. Upon reaching Chumling, you’ll notice the cultural shift with traditional Tibetan-style homes, mani walls, and ancient monasteries dotting the village.
Trek to Ghokpa (Tent Camp) – 5 hours
Leave the main village trail and venture into less-traveled paths. Today’s trek is shorter but more remote as you gain altitude steadily and set up camp in Ghokpa, an isolated meadow offering views of surrounding peaks.
Trek to Chamar Base Camp – 7 to 8 hours
Today marks your arrival at Chamar Base Camp. The trail becomes more rugged and alpine as you ascend into the high Himalayas. Upon arrival, the expedition team will establish the base camp at a suitable and secure location for the climb.
Days 10–14: Setup and Acclimatization at Base Camp
These days are allocated for acclimatization and setting up high camps (Camp I, II, and possibly Camp III depending on route strategy). Team members will practice rope techniques, crevasse rescue, and gear handling while making short rotations to higher altitudes.
Days 15–35: Climbing Period – Summit Mount Chamar (7,187m)
This 21-day window is dedicated to the actual climbing phase. Depending on weather and route conditions, teams will move between camps with the goal of reaching the summit of Mount Chamar a first ascent for many. The climb involves glacier travel, fixed rope sections, and steep ice faces. Summit day rewards climbers with stunning panoramic views and the triumph of conquering a rarely attempted Himalayan peak.
Day 36: Clear Base Camp and Prepare for Return
All equipment and waste will be cleared from the mountain in accordance with eco-mountaineering principles. The team will dismantle all high camps and base camp, ensuring no trace is left behind.
Day 37: Trek Back to Chumling – Overnight at Teahouse
Retrace your steps back to Chumling. After weeks in the wilderness and under tents, you will enjoy the comfort of a teahouse once again, along with warm hospitality from the locals.
Day 38: Trek to Jagat – 8 hours
A long day of trekking as you descend significantly and rejoin the main trail of the Manaslu region. Cross rivers and pass through familiar villages on your way back to Jagat.
Day 39: Trek to Machha Khola – 7 hours
Continue descending along the Budi Gandaki River, walking through lush forests, terraced fields, and hillside settlements until you reach Machha Khola, the end point of your trek.
Day 40: Drive Back to Kathmandu – 8 to 9 hours
Enjoy the final scenic drive back to Kathmandu. Upon arrival, check into your hotel and relax after the long journey. The evening is free for shopping, dining, or a soothing massage.
Day 41: Expedition Debrief & Certificate Distribution
Visit the Department of Tourism for a final debriefing. Successful climbers will receive an official summit certificate. The rest of the day is free for leisure and celebration.
Day 42: Final Departure
Our team will transfer you to Tribhuvan International Airport for your final departure. As you head home with unforgettable memories of the Chamar Expedition, we bid you farewell and hope to see you again for your next Himalayan adventure.