Chamlang Expedition
Overview
Comarceil Mountain (Chamlang) 7,321m Expedition
Comarceil Mountain, more widely recognized as Chamlang, rises to an impressive 7,321 meters (24,016 feet) and lies in the secluded wilderness of Nepal’s Hunku Valley. Though it may not share the global fame of Nepal’s towering 8,000-meter peaks, Chamlang holds a strong allure for seasoned mountaineers seeking a serious technical challenge in one of the least-traveled corridors of the Himalayas.
Nestled within the Mahalangur Himal range, Chamlang is surrounded by dramatic alpine landscapes, massive glaciers, and isolated terrain that intensifies the expedition’s complexity. The ascent involves a mix of steep ice faces, sharp ridgelines, and technical rock climbing, demanding climbers be proficient in both alpine and ice climbing techniques. Additionally, unpredictable Himalayan weather further raises the stakes, making Chamlang a true test of endurance, skill, and determination.
While the historical records of Chamlang ascents remain relatively sparse compared to more frequented summits, this adds to the mountain's mystique. Its remote location offers a sense of purity and solitude rarely found on more commercial routes. The expedition typically begins with a trek through the Hunku Valley, a path that combines physical rigor with scenic tranquility.
This climb is recommended for highly experienced mountaineers ready to embrace a physically intense and mentally demanding Himalayan adventure—far from the crowds, deep in the heart of the Nepalese wilderness.
The Hidden Wilderness of Hunku Valley
The Hunku Valley, tucked away in the southern reaches of the Khumbu region, is a pristine and remote corridor of alpine beauty. As part of the Makalu Barun National Park and Conservation Area, it remains largely untouched by commercial tourism, offering a raw and authentic Himalayan experience.
Overshadowed by its neighbor, the Everest region, the Hunku Valley is Nepal’s best-kept secret for trekkers and mountaineers who prefer less-trodden paths. The valley offers a dramatic backdrop of jagged peaks, high-altitude lakes, cascading glaciers, and sweeping panoramas of giants like Makalu (8,485m) and Chamlang itself.
Historically, this region has been home to the Sherpa and other high-mountain communities who have preserved their traditions and spiritual lifestyles for generations. Their deep-rooted connection to the land and the mountains adds a rich cultural dimension to the trekking and climbing experience.
Trekking through the Hunku Valley feels like stepping into an untouched world. The trail winds past ancient monasteries, prayer flags fluttering in the wind, and serene campsites surrounded by silence and snow. The valley serves as a gateway for expeditions to Chamlang, Makalu, and Mera Peak, offering ideal acclimatization and approach routes for these high-altitude climbs.
For mountaineers, the Hunku Valley is not just a route—it’s a rite of passage. Its remoteness, natural grandeur, and cultural richness make it an essential part of the Chamlang expedition and a journey worth undertaking in its own right.
Itinerary
Day 01:Arrival in Kathmandu (1,300m)
Upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, our team will welcome you and transfer you to your hotel in Kathmandu. You’ll have time to rest or explore the city at your leisure.
Day 02: Equipment Check and Preparation
A full day is dedicated to checking your climbing gear and making final preparations. You’ll meet your expedition team, guides, and receive a briefing about the climb.
Day 03:Cultural Sightseeing in Kathmandu
Enjoy a guided sightseeing tour of Kathmandu’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites, including Boudhanath Stupa and Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple), gaining insight into Nepal’s rich cultural and spiritual heritage.
Day 04:Fly to Lukla, Trek to Kharkiteng (3,360m) – 7 hrs
Take an early scenic flight to Lukla (2,840m). Begin trekking through remote trails to reach Kharkiteng, passing rhododendron forests and mountain villages.
Day 05:Trek via Chhatra La Pass (4,225m) to Thulikharka – 7 hrs
Ascend through alpine landscapes and cross Chhatra La Pass, enjoying stunning views of Himalayan peaks. Arrive at Thulikharka for an overnight stay.
Day 06:Trek to Kothe (3,535m) – 7 hrs
Descend into the lush Hinku Valley and follow the trail along the Inkhu Khola River. The trail gradually gains elevation as you reach Kothe.
Day 07:Trek to Thangnag (4,060m) – 6 hrs
Today’s trek takes you deeper into the valley with remarkable views of Mera Peak and surrounding glaciers. Thangnag is a small settlement surrounded by dramatic terrain.
Day 08: Acclimatization and Rest Day in Thangnag
Spend a day resting and acclimatizing to the high altitude. Short hikes are encouraged for better adaptation and to explore the surrounding areas.
Day 09:Trek to Khare (4,760m) – 4 hrs
A relatively short day as you climb to Khare, a key acclimatization point before pushing further. Enjoy views of Mera Peak and neighboring summits.
Day 10:Optional Hike or Rest for Further Acclimatization
Use this day to rest or explore nearby ridgelines for acclimatization. Optional hikes offer excellent photography and mountain views.
Day 11:Trek to Kongmading (5,168m) – 8 hrs
A long and challenging trek through remote and rugged terrain brings you to Kongmading, a high-altitude campsite with stunning Himalayan backdrops.
Day 12:Trek to Chamlang Base Camp (5,280m) – 4 hrs
Arrive at Chamlang Base Camp, the staging ground for the summit. Settle in, begin preparations, and familiarize yourself with the surrounding geography.
Days 13–16: Base Camp Setup and Acclimatization
Spend several days organizing gear, setting up climbing tents, and acclimatizing. You may conduct short climbs and rope practice during this phase.
Days 17–36: Climbing Period – Chamlang Summit Attempt (7,321m)
The core of the expedition. Over these days, climbers follow a rotation strategy to higher camps before making the summit push. Weather windows and climber readiness determine summit day. The climb involves technical ice, snow, and rock sections.
Day 37: Clear Base Camp and Dry Pack
After the summit attempt, pack all equipment, clean the base camp, and prepare for the return journey. Waste management and environmental care are prioritized.
Day 38: Trek to Kongmading – 5 hrs
Begin the descent, retracing your route to Kongmading and taking time to enjoy the changing scenery.
Day 39: Trek to Khare – 7 hrs
Continue descending through alpine and glacial terrain back to Khare.
Day 40: Trek to Kothe – 7 hrs
The trail now feels more familiar as you descend further into the greener parts of the valley and return to Kothe.
Day 41: Trek to Thulikharka – 7 hrs
Climb back toward Thulikharka with renewed appreciation of the trail and the landscapes.
Day 42: Trek via Chhatra La Pass to Lukla (2,840m) – 9 hrs
A long final day of trekking. Cross the pass once again and descend all the way to Lukla. Celebrate the completion of the expedition with your team.
Day 43: Fly Back to Kathmandu
Early morning flight from Lukla to Kathmandu. Transfer to your hotel and enjoy a relaxing evening.
Day 44: Certificate Collection and Debriefing
Visit the Department of Tourism for official debriefing and to receive your climbing certificate. The rest of the day is free for shopping or sightseeing.
Day 45: Final Departure
After breakfast, transfer to the international airport for your onward journey home, ending your remarkable Chamlang adventure.