Tilicho Expedition
About Tilicho Expedition:
The Tilicho Expedition offers a technically engaging yet relatively straightforward high-altitude climb in the Nepalese Himalayas. Tilicho Peak (7,134m) rises dramatically above the stunning aqua-blue Tilicho Lake, situated at the base camp. The standard climbing route via the northwest shoulder presents a mixed terrain of rock, ice, and steep snowfields, making it an exciting challenge for mountaineers. Despite the technical difficulty, Tilicho Peak poses minimal objective hazards due to its broad shoulder, which adds to its appeal among climbers seeking a safer 7,000m peak.
From the summit, climbers are rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of the Annapurna Massif, Dhaulagiri, the Tibetan Plateau, and far below, the Kali Gandaki Valley the deepest valley in the world as well as the shimmering Tilicho Lake.
Historically, the peak gained attention during the 1950 French expedition led by Maurice Herzog, which sought a route to Annapurna I. While exploring Tilicho Lake, the team encountered an enormous wall of rock and ice later named “La Grande Barrière” (The Great Barrier) which forms the long shoulder that eventually ascends to Tilicho Peak.
Climbing Route and Itinerary:
The approach to Tilicho Base Camp follows the classic Annapurna Circuit Trail, moving through the beautiful Marsyangdi Valley and the culturally rich villages of Manang and Khansar. This route ensures a steady and effective acclimatization period of about 10 days. Alternatively, climbers can choose a faster but more demanding route by flying to Jomsom and trekking over the Mesokanto La Pass (5,300m), reaching base camp in three days, though with limited acclimatization.
Tilicho Base Camp (4,800m) lies at the northwest end of Tilicho Lake a serene spot ideal for rest and acclimatization. The lake area, rich in marine fossils, offers geological evidence that the Himalayas once lay beneath the ocean.
There are two high camps during the climb:
- Camp I (5,795m): Reached by crossing a 1.5 km snowfield and climbing a 690-meter, 50-degree slope of mixed rock and ice. This site offers stunning views of Tilicho Lake. Climbers first ascend to Camp I for gear drops and acclimatization, and then return for an overnight stay.
- Camp II (6,200m): Located on the shoulder, this camp is accessed by ascending a 700-meter, 55-degree snow slope that requires fixed ropes for safety. Due to the broad shoulder, the risk of avalanche or exposure is relatively low.
If weather conditions are favorable, the summit push is launched from Camp II. The final ascent involves climbing a long, snow-covered shoulder with 55–60° gradients, demanding strong endurance and minimal breaks to reduce avalanche risk. In case of adverse weather, climbers return to base camp to rest and prepare for another summit attempt.
Post-summit, most climbers descend via the Mesokanto Pass to Jomsom, a one-day route, followed by a flight to Pokhara. Alternatively, one can opt for the Annapurna Circuit route via the Thorong La Pass (5,416m), reaching Jomsom in three days.
A 16-day climbing window is recommended to allow sufficient time for acclimatization and potential weather delays, increasing the likelihood of a successful summit.
Highlights of the Tilicho Expedition:
- Technically engaging and rewarding 7,000m climb
- Spectacular setting by the turquoise Tilicho Lake
- Fewer climbers, offering a remote and peaceful experience
- Traditional Tibetan-influenced villages and local culture
- Perfect opportunity to test high-altitude climbing skills
- Expert Sherpa climbing guides and professionally organized logistics
- Incredible summit views: Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, the Tibetan Plateau, and the Kali Gandaki Valley
About Tilicho Peak (7,134m):
- First successfully climbed in 1978 by French climber Emanuel Schmutz
- Offers views of two 8,000m giants: Annapurna and Dhaulagiri
- Located near the highest lake in the world, Kajin Sara Lake (5,200m)
- Rich biodiversity including alpine flora and fauna
- Culturally vibrant regions: Manang and Mustang
- Lies within the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP), covering an area of 7,629 sq. km
Planning Your Tilicho Expedition:
We offer guaranteed departures for Tilicho Peak expeditions. For detailed itineraries, logistics, cost, or to customize your trip, please contact us directly. Join our expert team of Sherpa guides for a well-supported and unforgettable Himalayan climbing experience.
Itinerary
Arrival in Kathmandu (1,300m)
Upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, our representative will warmly welcome you and transfer you to your hotel. After check-in, you can relax or explore nearby areas. In the evening, there will be a short briefing about the expedition.
Kathmandu Sightseeing Tour
Today we explore the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Kathmandu including:
- Boudhanath Stupa – one of the largest stupas in the world.
- Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple) – offering panoramic views of the Kathmandu Valley.
- Enjoy the spiritual and cultural vibes of the capital city before your adventure begins.
Drive to Besisahar (760m)
After breakfast, we drive westward along the scenic highway to Besisahar, the gateway to the Annapurna Circuit. The journey takes around 6–7 hours passing through beautiful countryside, rivers, and terraced fields.
Drive to Dharapani (1,860m)
From Besisahar, we continue by jeep on a rugged mountain road through waterfalls, suspension bridges, and villages to reach Dharapani, the starting point of our trek.
Trek to Koto (2,600m) – 6 hrs
The trail leads through pine and fir forests alongside the Marsyangdi River. We pass through beautiful villages like Bagarchhap and Timang before arriving at Koto, a charming settlement with Tibetan influence.
Trek to Pisang (3,200m) – 7 hrs
Today’s walk offers magnificent views of Lamjung Himal and Annapurna II. We follow the trail through Chame and ascend gradually to Pisang, where the landscape changes with more alpine vegetation.
Trek to Ngawal (3,660m) – 5 hrs
We take the upper trail to Ngawal for better acclimatization. This route offers stunning views of the Annapurna range and a glimpse into the lifestyle of people living in remote Himalayan villages.
Trek to Manang (3,540m) – 5 hrs
A gradual trail leads to Manang, the cultural and trade center of the region. The village is surrounded by spectacular mountains and offers teahouses, bakeries, and a Himalayan Rescue Association clinic.
Acclimatization Hike to Kicho Tal (Ice Lake – 5,001m)
Today is a vital acclimatization day. We hike up to Ice Lake, locally known as Kicho Tal, offering breathtaking panoramic views of Annapurna and Gangapurna. Return to Manang for the night.
Trek to Shree Kharka – 5 hrs
We leave the main Annapurna trail and head toward Tilicho. The trail leads above the valley, passing through beautiful alpine meadows and yak pastures to reach Shree Kharka.
Trek to Tilicho Base Camp (4,150m) – 5 hrs
The route becomes narrower and more rugged as we trek along the moraine to reach Tilicho Base Camp, beautifully situated near the stunning glacial lake.
Day 12 to Day 15: Acclimatization & Setup at Base Camp (4,160m)
We spend several days here for acclimatization and to prepare for the summit. These days involve:
- Setting up fixed ropes.
- Load ferrying to higher camps.
- Resting to adapt to high altitude.
- Briefings and training by climbing Sherpas.
Day 16 to Day 34: Climbing Period – Summit Tilicho Peak (7,134m)
We begin our summit rotation:
- Establish Camp I (5,795m) and Camp II (6,200m).
- Make acclimatization trips before the final summit push.
- Once the weather is favorable, we begin the summit ascent.
The summit offers unparalleled views of Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, the Tibetan plateau, and Tilicho Lake. After a successful summit, we descend carefully and return to base camp.
Day 35: Clear Base Camp & Dry Equipment
After the successful climb, we clean the base camp, pack up the equipment, and prepare for the return trek. It’s also a day to rest and celebrate the summit.
Day 36: Trek to Yak Kharka (4,200m) – 9 hrs
We descend to Yak Kharka through alpine pastures and along high mountain trails, reconnecting with the classic Annapurna Circuit route.
Day 37: Trek to Thorong High Camp (4,450m) – 7 hrs
We continue the ascent to Thorong High Camp, located just below the Thorong La Pass. The area is desolate but incredibly scenic.
Day 38: Cross Thorong La Pass (5,416m) and Trek to Muktinath (3,760m) – 9 hrs
An early morning ascent takes us over the legendary Thorong La Pass, the highest trekking pass in the world. After taking in the stunning views, we descend to Muktinath, a sacred pilgrimage site.
Day 39: Trek or Drive to Jomsom (2,720m) – 5 hrs
From Muktinath, we either trek or take a jeep to Jomsom, the windy valley town and headquarters of Mustang district. Celebrate the end of the trek.
Day 40: Fly to Pokhara, Afternoon Fly to Kathmandu
Take an early morning scenic flight to Pokhara, followed by a connecting flight to Kathmandu. Upon arrival, transfer to your hotel and enjoy a well-deserved rest.
Day 41: Expedition Debriefing and Certification
Attend a debriefing session at the Department of Tourism, where you will receive your Summit Certificate. The rest of the day is free for shopping or relaxing.
Day 42: Final Departure
Our team will drop you at the airport for your final departure. We bid you farewell with the hope of seeing you again for another adventure in Nepal.